In The Dog Whisperer Paul Owens says that when a dog pulls on leash, "the person
has inadvertently taught his dog that the freedom to go forward is actually a reward
for pulling."
This page was written to address a specific person's needs. His dog was "spooked" by the
sight of a chain training collar (choke collar). Eventually I will generalize
the comments and consolidate the info on collars with my "collar" page.
I expect to obtain the correct names and sources of the collars that I describe below but right
now I consider this to be a work in progress. Eventually I will include some drawings.
Note that you need to 1) set your goal as to what you want your dog to do, 2) select a training
method, and 3) choose a collar. A choke collar won't stop your dog from pulling - you are going
to have to work hard to train your dog. In your case, I would recommend a standard buckle collar.
I don't recommend harnesses because they are designed to make pulling comfortable for the dog.
Have you checked out your local dog trainer for group lessons?
When something "spooks" a dog, I like to "desensitize" the dog gradually. For example, if your
dog responds violently to a standard collar, introduce it to her gradually. Show it to her and
then take it away. Talk soothingly and give her a treat. Next actually touch her with it. Next
put it around her neck without fastening it. Then fasten it and immediately take it off. Fasten
it and leave it on for a while. Fasten it and attach a leash but do not use the leash to control
her. Do this over as long a period of time as it takes. Always praise success and give a treat.
If she "spooks," you have advanced too quickly - the fault is yours. Back off to a lower "threat"
level. Always end any training session on a note of success. If you haven't had any success, you
have been accelerating the intensity too quickly.
I think of three situations when I hear of a dog pulling on her leash:
1) The owner wants the dog to heel in strict AKC style,
2) The owner wants to exercise the dog on a six-foot leash,
3) The owner wants to give the dog extended freedom on a Flexi-Leash.
There are several general approaches to the pulling problem.
1) The owner stops whenever the dog pulls. When the dog relaxes, the owner continues the walk.
This does take patience with some dogs but eventually the dog does learn not to pull.
2) The owner walks briskly in random directions and the dog is jerked if the dog does not pay
attention. The dog can be "set up" by relaxing the leash and then the owner gives a mighty tug
in the direction opposite to the dog's pulling.
3) The owner holds a piece of treat in front of the dog's face and thus lures the dog to follow
the owner.
All of these techniques should be accompanied by praise when the dog is walking without
pulling. Talking to the dog is really very necessary.
Hardware:
1) No-pull harness made out of wire. In my experience these are not effective if the dog is
pulling to the side or to the rear (lagging).
2) Head control devices - Gentle Leader/Promise Leader,
Halti, and a third which escapes me.
I have not used these but those who have swear by them. I don't know how they would work with
a Flexi-Leash.
3) Choke collars. I think that the term "choke" is unfortunate. Remember that the dog's neck
muscles are very strong. These training collars spread the force evenly around the neck of
the dog as
opposed to standard buckle collars, which concentrate the force all on one side of the neck
or on the
front of the neck and on the windpipe. These collars are made out of quite a few different
materials: small links, large links, oval links (fur savers), round noisy links (Woodhouse
collars), nylon tape (similar to a leash), nylon tube (lightweight and soft), leather tube (mine
is too stiff to work well), Martingale
("humane choke" - limits choke action), toggle choke, and snap choke.
4) Prong collars (German collars). These remind the dog of his mother's teeth - that's how
she corrects her puppies.
These collars bring about an instant change in the dog's attitude. But a stubborn dog will
continue to pull.
5) Standard buckle collars. These collars must be fitted snugly. These collars concentrate the force
all on one side of the neck or on the front of the neck and on the wind pipe.
Choke collars and Fur:
In my experience, what causes problems with the dog's fur is the travel of the "live" end of
the collar through the "dead" ring. The toggle choke and the snap choke certainly minimize
this travel. The larger the ring, the less the hair snags. The fur saver collar is somewhat
effective also. There really isn't any reason why a dog can't be trained on a standard buckle
collar. However I have difficulty snugging down the collar on top of, in, and through all of that
Chow Chow fur. For this reason, I think that the choke collars are more escape proof.
You will find more collar info in Collars and Leashes and Fur Damage.